Stalking The Elusive, Worthy Apricot

Apricots are the finest of summer's fruits, with dense, juicy flesh and delicate, velvety skins. Piled in baskets in farmers market stalls, they seem to glow in the early morning light. The prettiest ones have a celestial blush and a sweet, floral fragrance.

That's why it is so disheartening when you bite into one only to find it is mealy and flavorless. I can't count the number of times this apricot lover has been the victim of just such an injustice. You probably have been, too.

I grew up eating apricots by the kilo during summers spent in Italy. I could not get enough of their intense flavor, of prying them open and biting into their sweet-tart meaty interiors. I liked them better than I liked gelato (OK — maybe that's a stretch, but not by much).

Finding worthy apricots this side of the Atlantic has been a challenge, especially since I am not in California, the source of about 95 percent of commercially grown U.S. apricots. By the time they make their way over to Virginia, where I live, I suspect any celestial qualities have been jostled out of them. Having been burned many times, I am now reluctant to pay upwards of $6 a pound at fancy grocery stores for apricots that don't deliver.

In recent years I've had some luck at my weekly farmers market, where the locally grown apricots, in season in late June and early July, are flavorful and juicy, if not quite as spectacular as those I remember from my childhood.

It took the apricot a long time — centuries — to get to my market. It's an ancient fruit, the origins of which can be traced back to pre-biblical times. It was first cultivated in the mountains of Northeastern China as early as 2200 B.C., according to food historian Waverly Root. From there it traveled to Mesopotamia (it was said to grow in the hanging gardens of Babylon) and the Mediterranean. Spanish missionaries are credited with bringing the apricot to California in the 18th century.

Apricot trees require a temperate climate to thrive, Root says, with a cool winter allowing for a dormant period. However, the tree blooms early and is highly susceptible to frost, which can make it difficult to cultivate.

There are many varieties of apricots, with colorful names such as Lorna, Ambercot, Blenheim and Goldbar. Some are large and plush and uniformly orange-colored and some are small, with a rosy cast. Then there are the new hybrids such as red velvet, with its near-black skin — actually a cross between an apricot and a plum.

Apricots are best when picked ripe from the tree. While it's easy to tell if an apricot is ripe, it can be tough to tell whether it's good. Look for fruits that have a deep orange-gold color rather than those that are pale orange or yellow. They should be plump and firm, with just a little softness to them. If they're hard, they're not ripe; if they're squishy, they've gone too far. Ripe apricots have a lovely, unmistakable floral fragrance, so give it the sniff test.

Having said all that, there have been times, usually in grocery stores, where I thought I was buying decent apricots and have been sorely disappointed when I took a bite. You're likely to have better luck at a farmers market that sells locally grown fruit. Taste a sample if you can; it's really the only way to know for sure.

Besides being delicious, apricots are packed with nutrition — vitamins A and C, plus fiber and potassium. In the kitchen, they are versatile, and as much as I love them (the good ones) raw, cooking them caramelizes their sugars and deepens their flavor, making them even more delightful. They are as comfortable sidled up to a roast as they are nestled in a sweet pastry crust. In savory dishes they go especially well with lamb, pork and chicken.

But I like them best on the sweet side, in a pie or tart, or cooked down to a thick, glossy jam. The sweet, flowery aroma of that jam cooking on the stove top takes me right back to the carefree days of childhood summer. It's a good place to be.

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Recipe: Strawberry-Apricot Pie

For a brief moment in early summer, strawberry and apricot seasons overlap. That is when you should — must — make this pie. It's a harmony of sweet and tangy flavors, set off by a buttery crust. Plus, the filling, when baked, is the color of a tropical sunset.

It was not my genius idea to put these two fruits together. For that I must credit the Roches, a trio of folk-singing sisters who, years ago, wrote a song called "The Troubles," which includes the lyrics, "I hope they have health food in Dublin, and strawberry-apricot pie. If they don't have those things in Dublin, we'll probably die."

A hearty thanks to the Roches for the inspiration.

Makes one 9-inch pie

Crust?

2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour?

1 teaspoon fine sea salt?

2/3 cup plus 2 tablespoons cold unsalted butter, cut into 1/2-inch pieces?

About 5 tablespoons ice-cold water

Filling

3 cups strawberries, hulled and quartered lengthwise

3 cups diced fresh apricots (no need to peel)?

2 teaspoons freshly squeezed lemon juice?

1 cup sugar?

1/4 cup unbleached all-purpose flour?

1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon?

Pinch of freshly grated nutmeg

To make the crust, combine the flour and salt in the work bowl of a food processor fitted with the metal blade and pulse briefly. Scatter the butter around the work bowl and pulse until the mixture has formed coarse crumbs. With the motor running, drizzle in the water and process just until the dough begins to come together.

Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured work surface and pat it into two disks, one slightly larger than the other. Wrap each disk tightly in plastic wrap and chill in the refrigerator for about 30 minutes.

Heat the oven to 425 degrees.

In a large bowl, gently mix together the strawberries, apricots, lemon juice, sugar, flour, cinnamon and nutmeg. Set aside.

Remove the dough from the refrigerator. Roll the larger piece into an 11-inch disk and gently press it into a 9-inch pie plate, leaving the overhang. Spoon the filling into the pastry-lined pie plate. Roll the smaller piece of dough into a 10-inch disk and, using a fluted pastry wheel, cut the disk into 10 (3/4-inch-thick) strips. Arrange the strips over the filling in a lattice pattern and trim off the ends. Fold the overhang over and pinch it to seal it and form a decorative rim.

Set the pie on a rimmed baking sheet and bake for 40-50 minutes, until the crust is golden-brown and the filling is bubbly and thick. Serve warm with a little cold heavy cream poured over each slice or a scoop of vanilla ice cream on top.

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Recipe: Broiled Apricots With Honey Mascarpone

This is the dish to trot out when you have no time to make dessert but still want to serve one. It takes less than 10 minutes to assemble from start to finish but I can assure you no one will be disappointed. Broiling the apricots concentrates their sweet-tart flavor. A dollop of honey mascarpone on top adds just a touch of richness. If restraint is your thing, use non-fat Greek yogurt in place of the mascarpone.

Makes 4 servings

8 tablespoons mascarpone cheese

2 tablespoons honey

6 ripe apricots

2 tablespoons butter, cut into 12 pieces

2 tablespoons sugar

Dash of cinnamon

Position an oven rack 4 inches from the broiler and turn the broiler on.

In a small bowl, whisk together the mascarpone and honey until well-blended. Set aside.

Gently pry the apricots in half or use a paring knife to split them open. Remove and discard the pits.

Set the apricot halves, cut side up, on a small, rimmed baking sheet or shallow broiler pan. Place a piece of butter in each of the apricot cavities. Sprinkle the sugar on the apricot halves and sprinkle a little cinnamon over each half.

Broil the apricot halves for 3 minutes, or until the sugar begins to caramelize and the apricots are just beginning to char around the edges. Remove from the oven.

Spoon the apricots, three halves per person, into dessert bowls and top each serving with a dollop of honey mascarpone. Serve while still warm.

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Recipe: Apricot-Anise Jam

If you are new to jam making, apricots are a great fruit to start with. You don't have to peel them as their thin skin melts away during cooking. And there is no need to add the jelling agent pectin, since the fruit thickens nicely on its own. The optional addition of aniseed in this recipe imparts a delicate licorice note to the sweet-tart flavor of the apricots. Spread this jam on your morning toast, or use it to make jam cookies, a jam tart or, on the savory side, to glaze a pork roast.

Makes about 1 pint (2 cups)

1 1/2 pounds ripe apricots (12-14 medium)

3/4 to 1 cup sugar

2 tablespoons orange or lemon juice

3 small strips of lemon peel

1/2 teaspoon aniseed

A 3-inch-by-3-inch square of cheesecloth

Cut the apricots in half and remove the pits. Cut each half into 4 pieces and put the pieces in a heavy-bottomed nonreactive pot. (I use an enamel-coated cast-iron pot.) Sprinkle 3/4 cup sugar over the apricots and add the orange or lemon juice and the lemon peel. Gently stir to combine.

Mound the aniseed on the square of cheesecloth and tie it into a bundle with kitchen string. Toss the bundle into the pot.

Set the pot over medium heat and bring to a simmer. Cook, stirring often, for 10 minutes or until most of the fruit has broken down and the mixture has begun to thicken. Taste and add the remaining 1/4 cup sugar if the mixture is too tart. Cook, stirring, for an additional 10 minutes or until thickened to a jam-like consistency. (Reduce the heat to medium-low if the mixture is sputtering too much.)

To test for doneness, spoon a small amount of the mixture into a small bowl or plate and set in the freezer for 5 minutes. Tilt the bowl. If the jam is thick and stays mounded, it is done. If it is runny, continue to cook for another 5 minutes or so, until sufficiently thickened.

Remove the pot from the heat and let the jam cool slightly. Retrieve and discard the cheesecloth bundle. You can fish out the lemon peel as well if you like, but I usually just leave it in (it's hard to locate). Ladle the jam into two clean 1/2-pint jars. Cap the jars and store in the refrigerator for up to 1 month.

Note: You can process the jam for a longer shelf life: Ladle the hot jam into 2 sterilized glass jars. Cap the jars with sterilized lids and rings and process in a boiling-water bath for 10 minutes. Store the jars in a cool, dark place for up to 1 year.

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Recipe: Cheryl's Apricot Fragipane Galette

Cheryl Sternman Rule is the creator of the award-winning blog 5 Second Rule and author of the cookbook Ripe: A Fresh, Colorful Approach to Fruits and Vegetables (Running Press, 2012). The recipe for this rustic, almond-spiked tart is adapted from her book. The rich, delicate crust is spread with a thick, creamy layer of almond filling and then topped with apricot slices. It's baked in a hot oven just until the natural sugars in the apricots caramelize and the slices of fruit turn juicy, with barely singed tips.

Makes 6 to 8 servings

Crust

1 cup plus 1 tablespoon all-purpose flour

1/4 cup almond meal (also called almond flour)

1/4 teaspoon kosher salt

1 tablespoon sugar

9 tablespoons cold butter, cut into pieces

3/4 teaspoon pure almond extract

2 tablespoons ice water

Almond Frangipane

1/2 cup almond meal

1/4 cup sugar

4 tablespoons butter, at room temperature

1 large egg, separated

1/2 teaspoon pure almond extract

Pinch of kosher salt

Fruit

4-5 apricots (about 10 ounces), pitted and quartered

1 tablespoon sugar

1/2 teaspoon lemon juice

For the crust, in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, mix the flour, almond meal, salt, sugar and cold butter on low speed until clumps begin to form, about 1 minute. Add the almond extract and ice water and continue mixing until the dough comes together in a mass, 1 to 2 minutes. Transfer to a large sheet of plastic wrap, flatten into a 4 1/2-inch disk, wrap tightly and refrigerate for 1 hour.

Make the frangipane in the same bowl. Beat the almond meal, sugar, butter, egg yolk (reserve the egg white for brushing on the pastry later), almond extract and salt on medium speed until smooth, about 1 minute. Refrigerate, covered, until the crust is ready.

Line a heavy rimmed baking sheet with parchment. In a large bowl, toss the apricots with the sugar and lemon juice. On a floured countertop, roll out the chilled dough to a rough 11-inch circle. Transfer to the prepared baking sheet. Spread the frangipane thickly over the dough, leaving a 1 1/2-inch border. Scatter the apricots, cut side up atop the frangipane, scraping any juices from the bowl on top. (Do not pile the apricots in a heap. If they don't fit, eat any leftover pieces separately.) Fold in the pastry, pleating as you go, leaving a 4- to 5-inch circle of fruit exposed. Freeze on the baking sheet for 20 minutes.

Preheat the oven to 450 degrees. Whisk the reserved egg white until frothy. Brush it on the exposed pastry border. Bake the galette in the center of the oven for 25 to 30 minutes, or until the pastry is golden brown and the frangipane is set. Transfer the baking sheet to a cooling rack. Allow the galette to cool to room temperature (at least 30 minutes). Because the pastry is extremely delicate, slice and serve directly from the baking sheet.

About The Author

Domenica Marchetti is the author of five books on Italian cooking, including The Glorious Pasta of Italy and, forthcoming this fall, The Glorious Vegetables of Italy. She is the co-founder of American Food Roots, a website that explores why we eat what we eat. She also blogs about Italian home cooking at www.domenicacooks.com.

Get recipes for Strawberry-Apricot Pie, Broiled Apricots With Honey Mascarpone, Apricot-Anise Jam and Cheryl's Apricot Fragipane Galette.

Journalist Michael Hastings Dies In Car Crash At Age 33

Michael Hastings, the journalist whose candid interviews of Gen. Stanley McChrystal led to the officer's eventual removal from his post, has died in a car crash. The news was announced Tuesday by BuzzFeed, which employed Hastings, 33. He was reportedly killed in an accident this morning in Los Angeles.

In a statement released this afternoon, BuzzFeed editor-in-chief Ben Smith called Hastings "a great, fearless journalist with an incredible instinct for the story, and a gift for finding ways to make his readers care about anything he covered from wars to politicians."

Hastings "wrote stories that would otherwise have gone unwritten," Smith said, "and without him there are great stories that will go untold."

In a 2010 interview with NPR's Michele Norris, Hastings said he had been shocked by the uproar generated by his Rolling Stone profile of McChrystal, who was then the commander of U.S. and NATO Coalition Forces in Afghanistan. After the article was published, McChrystal was recalled to Washington; he eventually resigned.

"Hard-charging, unabashedly opinionated, Hastings was original and at times abrasive," Rolling Stone's Tim Dickinson writes. "He had little patience for flacks and spinmeisters and will be remembered for his enthusiastic breaches of the conventions of access journalism."

A native of Vermont, Hastings is survived by his wife, Elise Jordan.

About The Author

Domenica Marchetti is the author of five books on Italian cooking, including The Glorious Pasta of Italy and, forthcoming this fall, The Glorious Vegetables of Italy. She is the co-founder of American Food Roots, a website that explores why we eat what we eat. She also blogs about Italian home cooking at www.domenicacooks.com.

Get recipes for Strawberry-Apricot Pie, Broiled Apricots With Honey Mascarpone, Apricot-Anise Jam and Cheryl's Apricot Fragipane Galette.

Episode 466: DIY Finance

Mike Smith lives by himself in a small house in a small town in Kentucky, near the Ohio River. He makes about $1,000 a month, owns his house outright, and doesn't carry any debt. He suspects that his brother and at least one but maybe all of his three grown children have stolen money from him.

Over a period of about a year he made exactly six transactions that cost him over $100 — a property tax bill, an insurance payment, a couple big-ticket repairs. And there was the $109 he spent on a pet lizard, which he planned to use as an investment by breeding it and selling its offspring.

On today's show, we look at how people create their own financial systems from scratch.

Mike has thousands of dollars stashed around his house in different "accounts." Tamara Bullock and Patricia Hamilton are part of an informal savings club. Miguel Rada has a whole bank in his pocket — he takes deposits from some people and lends to others.

Mike's story comes to us via the U.S. Financial Diaries Project. (His name isn't really Mike Smith, by the way; the project gave him a pseudonym so he could remain anonymous.

Music: K'naan's "Better." Find us: Twitter/ Facebook/Spotify/ Tumblr. Download the Planet Money iPhone App.

About The Author

Domenica Marchetti is the author of five books on Italian cooking, including The Glorious Pasta of Italy and, forthcoming this fall, The Glorious Vegetables of Italy. She is the co-founder of American Food Roots, a website that explores why we eat what we eat. She also blogs about Italian home cooking at www.domenicacooks.com.

Get recipes for Strawberry-Apricot Pie, Broiled Apricots With Honey Mascarpone, Apricot-Anise Jam and Cheryl's Apricot Fragipane Galette.

Amazon Cuts Ties In Minnesota Ahead Of New Sales Tax

Weeks before Minnesota's new sales tax law takes effect, online retailer Amazon is cutting its ties to members of its Associates program who live in the state. The new law requires businesses that have a presence in Minnesota to collect sales tax.

Amazon has taken similar steps in other states that have passed laws like Minnesota's, ending the contracts of people and businesses that are paid for sending customers to the retailer.

"Online retailers who have relationships with an associate or an affiliate like me and do a certain amount of business in the state of Minnesota, they have to collect sales tax," Carrie Rocha of Maple Grove, Minn., tells Minnesota Public Radio. "There's a very easy workaround for these businesses and that's to sever their business relationship with me, basically fire me. They don't then have to collect the sales tax."

In a letter to affiliates reprinted by the Twin Cities' Pioneer Press, Amazon informed recipients that their account "will be closed" and the company will not pay them for any customers referred to Amazon after June 30, "nor will we accept new applications for the Associates Program from Minnesota residents."

There are more than 5,000 Amazon Associates in Minnesota, the Pioneer Press reports.

The letter from Amazon says the change is a result of "the unconstitutional Minnesota state tax collection legislation" that will take effect on July 1. It concludes by saying Amazon will restore its ties after Congress approves the Marketplace Fairness Act. The Senate approved that measure in May, but it faces opposition from many other online retailers.

About The Author

Domenica Marchetti is the author of five books on Italian cooking, including The Glorious Pasta of Italy and, forthcoming this fall, The Glorious Vegetables of Italy. She is the co-founder of American Food Roots, a website that explores why we eat what we eat. She also blogs about Italian home cooking at www.domenicacooks.com.

Get recipes for Strawberry-Apricot Pie, Broiled Apricots With Honey Mascarpone, Apricot-Anise Jam and Cheryl's Apricot Fragipane Galette.

Boehner Seeks To Reassure House GOP On Immigration

Faced with the threat of mutiny for what seems like the umpteenth time during his speakership, John Boehner moved to mollify fellow Republicans on Tuesday, saying immigration legislation would need the support of a majority of the House GOP before it could be brought to a floor vote.

After emerging from a meeting with House Republicans, following days of warnings by conservatives that the Ohio Republican had better not try to pass an immigration bill with mostly Democratic votes, Boehner sought to calm the roiling Republican waters.

"I also suggested to our members today that any immigration reform bill that is going to go into law ought to have a majority of both parties' support if we're really serious about making that happen," he told reporters waiting outside the meeting room. "And so I don't see any way of bringing an immigration bill to the floor that doesn't have majority support of Republicans."

The practice of bringing to a floor vote only legislation supported by a majority of the party is known as the Hastert rule. Denny Hastert, the Illinois Republican who was speaker from 1999 to 2007, mostly stuck to the practice of bringing to a vote only those bills with a "majority of the majority" supporting them. It was a good way to keep his political base in the House contented.

Boehner's words to the House GOP were meant to reassure Republicans opposed to provisions in the legislation the Senate is now considering — provisions that would create a citizenship pathway for people in the U.S. illegally.

In a clear shot across the bow of Boehner's speakership, Rep. Dana Rohrabacher of California said in an interview Monday that if the speaker let legislation reach the floor that a majority of House Republicans found objectionable, Boehner should be evicted from the speaker's office. Rohrabacher said:

"I would consider that a betrayal of the Republican members of the House and a betrayal of Republicans throughout the country. If Speaker Boehner moves forward and permits this to come to a vote even though a majority of Republicans in the House oppose whatever is coming to a vote, he should be removed as speaker."

That statement would be virtually impossible to spin, even in Washington, into anything less than a bald-faced threat.

In the past, Boehner has passed legislation most fellow House Republicans found odious, like the bill that averted the fiscal cliff. It passed in January with just 85 of 241 Republicans voting for it, causing the speaker to rely on nearly unified Democratic support for passage.

Comments he made in a recent ABC News interview caused the latest bout of concern among Republicans. The speaker described revising the nation's immigration laws as his "top priority." That led some in the GOP to surmise that he would do anything to get a bill passed, even one most of them didn't like.

There were at least two other things worth noting about Boehner's Tuesday comments. One, he prepared the ground for the argument that Democrats would be to blame if immigration legislation should fail in the House.

Some Senate and House Republicans have maintained that before they will vote for any legislation, they will need to be persuaded that it contains border controls that will need to demonstrate their effectiveness before before individuals now in the country illegally get the chance at citizenship. Democrats have generally balked at going as far on border-enforcement features. They've accused Republicans of trying to kill the legislation by creating insurmountable hurdles for it.

Boehner said:

"... I just think the White House and Senate Democrats ought to get very serious. We know that border security is absolutely essential, that — if we're going to give people confidence that we can do the rest of what's being suggested. And I frankly think that the Senate bill is weak on border security. I think the internal enforcement mechanisms are weak and the triggers are almost laughable.

"And so if they're serious about getting an immigration bill finished, I think the president and Senate Democrats ought to reach out to their Democrat — Republican colleagues to build broad bipartisan support for the bill."

Secondly, Boehner didn't rule out the possibility that he could break the Hastert rule on a later immigration vote. If the House does actually somehow pass an immigration bill and the Senate does too, he seemed to say, who knows?

"We'll see when we get there," Boehner said.

About The Author

Domenica Marchetti is the author of five books on Italian cooking, including The Glorious Pasta of Italy and, forthcoming this fall, The Glorious Vegetables of Italy. She is the co-founder of American Food Roots, a website that explores why we eat what we eat. She also blogs about Italian home cooking at www.domenicacooks.com.

Get recipes for Strawberry-Apricot Pie, Broiled Apricots With Honey Mascarpone, Apricot-Anise Jam and Cheryl's Apricot Fragipane Galette.