May 27, 2013 — Demand for local food has skyrocketed in big cities like New York and Boston. But do North Country farmers have a role to play in feeding those cities?
Most of the time, Eric Andrus is a beef and rice farmer. But lately, he’s learning to be a boat builder. When I arrive at his farm, he’s in the barn, sanding the hull of a big wooden barge.
“We’re about to apply the second layer of plywood,” Andrus says.
Andrus lives in Ferrisburg, Vt., near Lake Champlain. This fall, he plans to load up the boat with potatoes, grains, honey, apples, beans, and maple syrup, all produced in the Champlain Valley, and sail to markets further south. It’s called the Vermont Sail Freight project.
“Products that have a longer shelf life tend to be under-supplied, chronically under-supplied, in the New York City area because they require too much space to grow and aren’t economical to grow in high rent land areas," he says. "The sail freight project represents a way for farmers with shelf staple products to have that representation through a very visible and magnet platform.”
Andrus admits that, for now, the boat is kind of floating publicity stunt.
But it also indicates just how creative North Country farmers have to get when they try to access major markets.
Bernadette Logozar, with Cornell Cooperative Extension in Malone, sums it up this way:
“Are there farmers in the from the Adirondack North Country region selling products into New York City? Yes. Is it without its challenges? Absolutely not. Is that still kind of the diamond prize that’s hanging on the horizon for many? Absolutely."
“The problem for farmers is that they sell it into a commodity pool and basically end up competing in a high-volume, low-price kind of a market," says David Connor, who teaches sustainable food economics at the University of Vermont. "If you have a specialty product that it does tend to allow you to capture a greater percent of the consumer dollar.”
And then, there’s the problem of distribution. New York City is really far away.
“The distance works against you; it’s a seven-hour haul just to get down to the edge of the city,” says Ralph Childs, a farmer in Malone.
He’s doing something most North Country farmers aren’t: selling to the commodity market.
Childs grows massive amounts of greens. Each week in the summer, he fills up 5 semi-trucks with spinach and cilantro and ships it all down to Hunts Point Terminal Market in the Bronx. It’s the world’s biggest produce wholesaler and supplies approximately 22 million people.
In order to make it all happen, Ralph works with broker Bob Monzeglio.
“We find the customers in the markets, we secure the transportation, we hire the trucks and send them over to Ralph’s cooler, we guarantee the payment, we’re billing the customers for Ralph, we tell him what the market’s bringing,” Monzeglio says.
Monzeglio says he and Childs were able to break into the New York City market by taking advantage of the North Country’s cool summers.
“Eventually we narrowed it down to a few crops we knew had the potential to be monetarily lucrative during that summertime period," Monzeglio says. "That’s our niche for large scale agriculture is to supply items that cannot be grown in say Baltimore, Philadelphia, New York, in summertime.”
Logozar, with Cornell Cooperative Extension, says building those connections to bigger markets takes work.
“They also have to divide their time between production and marketing," she explains. "And they have to make the connection and then once they make the connection if they don’t have the capability or whoever they made the connection to doesn’t have the transportation ability or the distribution ability then the farmer needs to get it there.”
“For farms that are more than a few hours drive from the city, there’s an extreme quality of life cost to accessing the New York City market," Andrus, the boat builder, says. "In many cases farmers I know who do this drive through the night in order to conduct these marathon farmers market sessions and come home exhausted.”
But there’s no easy way to get products to market. Logozar says that means farmers need to have a plan.
“Wherever your market is, you need as a farmer or a producer, you want to know where you want your product, and how you’re going to get it there," she says. "Who is your target market and aim for them.”
So, should North Country farmers aim for a greater share of the big city market? The answer is maybe.